2017 Tinon Hatari Tokaji Furmint 750 ml

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Samuel Tinon branched out on his own in 2000, having worked at Royal Tokaji Company since 1991. He started renting vineyards and now both owns and rents around five hectares. According to Wine Advocate’s reviewer Neal Martin, “he often ages the wine under a flor of yeast, so you end up with an intriguing sherry/Tokaji hybrid that is almost jarring, yet stimulating to the senses.“

A uniquely fresh and lively wine from the Hatari vineyard in Hungary; Határi, literally “at­ the ­border” is right on the cusp between the villages of Erdőbénye and Olaszliszka in the geographic center of the Tokaj appellation. The soils on Határi have an ancient volcanic base (tuffa, obsidian) plus broken up limestone and clay. 

Among all of Tinon’s dry wines, this one - made from 100% old vine Furmint - is the driest and freshest, and yet some how it achieves a silkiness that falsely implies residual sugar. Perhaps it’s the old vines achieving balance, perhaps it’s the intensely volcanic soils, or the right grape in the right place, but this is one of Tinon's most elegant and piercing Furmints. It’s like taking the weight and creamy texture of Chenin Blanc and the acidic edge and stony fruit of Riesling and mashing them together with smoke and salt. 

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