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Certain wines show their place of origin with such honest intensity as to cause a sentimental response—a poignant gasp at their total lack of artifice. Ferrando’s flagship Erbaluce di Caluso “La Torrazza” is one such wine. What a beautiful evocation of the Alps this wine is: its shimmering, mountain-spring quality; its plethora of mountain herbs, of teeming solar greenness; its bounty of orchard fruits, picked fresh in the crispness of early morning, still dewy. The nose brims with quince and Alpine honey, with fennel fronds and sun-kissed jasmine flowers—an intoxicating array of nature scents. The palate reveals a heft and a structure, with an almost chewy sense of chalky minerality tempering the aromas’ airborne trajectory—still, there is immense lift, and the flavors dance. The finish id notably long and notably dry, with a lingering sense of solid rock that manages to stop short of austerity and leaves the taster anxious to repeat the ride. Vinified entirely in stainless steel, without malolactic fermentation, and bottled after eight months on the fine lees, “La Torrazza” comprises the majority of Ferrando’s Borgomasino plantings.