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After WWI, Hungary lost around 71% of its territory to Romania, Ukraine, Czechoslovakia (Slovakia), Yugoslavia (Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia) and Austria. Over 3 million ethnic Hungarians found themselves outside of Hungary with significant outcome on the grapes and traditions that never stopped or are now coming back to life beyond the present day borders of Hungary. On the southern slopes of the Mužsla Hills in Slovakia surrounded by the river Garam, Danube and the Ipoly rivers, is one such example: Bott Frigyes.
The front label of the Olaszrizling pretty much sums it up. It’s what I would draw if I were playing Pictionary. Heading north from Budapest you’ll pass the massive Basilica of Esztergom along the shores of the Danube. Once you pass over the Danube and enter Slovakia you’ll hit the Hron River (Garam in Hungarian, Gran in German) making its way down from the Tatra Mountains. Continuing West along the Danube you’ll soon come to the southern slopes of the Muzsla hills and then up around 250 meters you’ll see the iconic Tree in the middle of their 10 hectares of vineyards. Olaszrizling shows great fidelity to place, and this wine makes it crystal clear where you are. Volcanic clay and rich in limestone, this is 1/3 whole bunch pressed, 1/3 hamburger method (open vat fermented in three layers: foot trodden, whole clusters, and destemmed), and 1/3 whole berries in amphora. Everything was blended and then barrel aged for 8 months. This has all of the benefits of some extra maceration and whole berry fermentation with none of the pitfalls.
https://danchandgranger.com/